Spare large drills, even drills broken off (they can be re-sharpened) are always nice and should be thrown in since they're all probably too large for the seller to use after selling off the sole machine in the shop that can drive them. Generally if a drill doesn't have a morse taper, it didn't last too long in most shops after the American Civil War. If it's a REALLY old drill, you may find something other than morse taper, but these are pretty few and far between these days. Smaller than that and you have to temper your work size accordingly. Also, generally you want a morse taper 3, 4 or even 5 in the quill. Got drill arbors and chucks? A couple of sizes are nice but not essential. Some can be tightened to improve this aspect (some can't), but it's certainly something you can point to in an effort to lower the asking price. Eventually the entire table has "pock-marks" across it in an arc - or worse.) The arc of shame can be fixed, or at least made usable, but it is probably the single most frequent defect of these drill types.Ĭheck the quill for tightness. Look for the "arc of shame" on the table (table swings under the drill quill and unrespecting operators drill through the stock and right into the top of the table before they realize it. Money cash in hand speaks MP3 disks full, and the capability for the buyer to move WITHOUT help from the seller is generally worth an hours labor, figure $50 off the selling price.Īctually, the $150 isn't a bad price if it is all there and relatively undamaged/unmodified. Pay $150-200 for this? Question is - how many others would pay - and can you get it for less. What you have appears to be a knock-off copy of my 21" Excelsior Royersford (or maybe visa-versa?) all the way down to the ratchet/hand grip on the pull down handle.
I'm not that familiar with "Fairbanks" as a maker of anything other than scales, but I wouldn't put much of anything past them either. Welcome to the club! You sound like a "keeper of the flame" so you're certainly welcome here.
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